Breaking Down the Journey

Breaking Down the Journey

Connor Timm

Considering the vast length of the Pacific Crest Trail and the innumerable towns, mountain ranges, and ecosystems it passes through, the thought of hiking the entire trail can seem a herculean effort.  However, just as any task can be broken up into smaller steps, so too can the PCT be broken down into more easily digestible regions and sections.

Generally, the PCT is broadly broken up into five distinct sections, based partially on state borders and partly on the ecosystems and climate of the regions.  Ordered from south to north, the sections are: the Desert, the Sierra Nevada, Northern California, Oregon, and Washington.

An overview map of the Pacific Crest Trail showing the 5 main sections.

The Desert (aka Southern California)

Campo, CA (Mile 0) to Kennedy Meadows, CA (Mile 702)

The first and longest section of the PCT starts at the Mexican border east of San Diego, crossing the arid Sonoran and Mojave deserts and the prominent San Jacinto, San Bernardino, and San Gabriel mountain ranges in Southern California before reaching the southern Sierra Nevada at Kennedy Meadows.  True to its name, the desert is the hottest and driest section of the trail, with the scarcest water sources, the least amount of shade, and the fiercest wind (the trail passes through several large wind farms in this region).  Hikers will have to find solutions to deal with the ever-present threats of heat exhaustion and dehydration.  Most choose to carry extra water between reliable water sources, take breaks during the hottest part of the day (known as a siesta), and hike a lot of miles close to dawn or dusk or even during the night.

Despite the desert section being renowned for hot temperatures and long water carries, most of this section is actually not what most people would consider desert terrain.  Some stretches of trail do cross sandy valleys strewn with cacti and Joshua trees, but far more miles are composed of chaparral, a type of scrubland featuring manzanita, scrub oak, and other hardy bushes and small trees.  The trail even approaches 10,000 ft in elevation while traversing the major mountain ranges, where forests of pine trees stand in drastic juxtaposition to the desert below.

Having lived in SoCal for the past 5 years, I have a lot of experience hiking the type of terrain that I can expect on the desert section of the PCT.  That being said, I am still apprehensive about the constant heat and sun exposure.

The Sierra Nevada

Kennedy Meadows, CA (Mile 702) to South Lake Tahoe, CA (Mile 1091)

After the 700 miles of hiking through dry desert, hikers are greeted by a completely different environment with a new set of challenges – the high mountains.  The Sierra Nevada (or simply the Sierra) rise abruptly from the surrounding desert and lowlands.  Mt. Whitney (14,505’), the highest point in the contiguous United States, sits on the eastern flank of the Sierra only 80 miles west of the lowest point in the United States, Badwater Basin in Death Valley (282’ below sea level).

In contrast to the relatively flat but arid terrain of the desert, the Sierra section of the PCT climbs over several major mountain passes, ascending to 11,000’ or more before descending into the next valley.  The more rugged terrain decreases the pace of hikers, however the alpine snowmelt provides very frequent and reliable access to streams and rivers, making water availability much less problematic.

Despite the more difficult terrain, the Sierra are considered one of the best sections of the PCT, and for good reason.  The natural beauty of the Sierra is second to none, with massive sculpted granite domes, majestic waterfalls, and sparkling lakes being common place features.  Passing through the heart of the Sierra and traversing 3 national parks (Yosemite, Sequoia, and Kings Canyon), 1 national monument (Devils Postpile), and 11 wilderness areas, this section of the PCT features some of the most spectacular terrain in the western United States.  Having done several camping and backpacking trips within the Sierra, I am very excited to further explore this magnificent section of wilderness.

Northern California

South Lake Tahoe, CA (Mile 1091) to California-Oregon Border (Mile 1693)

The section of the PCT labeled “Northern California” is a conglomerate of various mountain ranges and wilderness areas that all can be generally classified as sub-alpine terrain that doesn’t quite reach the heights of the high Sierra but is still heavily forested and chock-full of pristine lakes and vast vistas.  Even though this section represents a transition from the granite geography of the Sierra Nevada to the volcanic rock of the southern Cascade range, the actual trail through Northern California is often noted to feel more homogeneous than previous sections.

Even though the mountains of this section may not be as spectacular as the high Sierra, there are still many scenic areas for hikers to look forward to.  The trail passes through Lassen Volcanic National Park which features thermal features and Mt. Lassen, one of the southernmost peaks in the Cascades.  The trail also passes by the prominent Mt. Shasta (also a volcanic peak) and the unique Burney Falls.  Other areas with interesting geography include Trinity Alps and Marble Mountain wilderness areas.

Unfortunately, much of the Northern California section of the PCT has been ravaged by wildfires in recent years, so some of the once beautiful areas will look very different than they did even 5 years ago. Such is the impact of climate change on our environment.

Oregon

California-Oregon Border (Mile 1693) to Cascade Locks, OR (Mile 2147)

By the time the PCT has crossed from California into Oregon, the terrain has fully transformed into the basalt-strewn landscapes of the Cascade range.  Composed primarily of active and dormant volcanoes, the Cascade range in Oregon features several prominent peaks with distinctive conical shapes, including Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Mount McLoughlin, Mount Thielsen, Mount Washington, and the Three Sisters.  Another unique volcanic feature visited by the PCT is Crater Lake, the deepest lake in the United States.

Though the PCT passes close to several prominent mountains in Oregon, the trail does not climb up most of these peaks, traversing along their lower slopes.  The Cascade peaks are also pretty spread out in Oregon, so between each peak the terrain is quite gentle.  The gentle terrain combined with the experience hikers have from previous sections make the Oregon section the easiest section for most hikers – at least in regard to physical exertion.

Washington

Cascade Locks, OR (Mile 2147) to Canada Border (Mile 2650)

At the Oregon-Washington border, the PCT crosses the Columbia River at Cascade Locks, the lowest point on the PCT.  Once on the Washington side, the trail quickly ascends back up to the Cascade range.  The Cascades in Washington are both higher and much more rugged than those in Oregon.  Prominent volcanic peaks that the PCT passes near include Mount Adams, Mount Rainier, and Mount Baker, all of which are visible from many miles away. 

Unlike Oregon, however, many smaller peaks lie between and around these major peaks.  These minor peaks add a lot of flavor to the terrain and result in some of the most breathtaking scenery of the entire PCT.  Highlights include Goat Rocks Wilderness near Mount Rainier, and the Alpine Lakes and Glacier Peak wildernesses of the northern Cascades.

One potential challenge for northbound hikers in Washington is early snowstorms.  If hikers do not finish the Washington section before mid-October, there is an increasing likelihood of winter conditions causing the trail to be much more difficult.  This is the main reason why northbound hikers attempt to finish the trail by the first week of October.

The PCT finally reaches an end at the Canadian border where the northern terminus monument is.  One final challenge for successful hikers is finding a way back to civilization, as the terminus is about 20 miles away from the nearest road.  In previous years, it was possible to request a permit from the Canadian border patrol to cross into Canada and hike an additional 10 miles to Manning Provincial Park in British Columbia, but the COVID-19 pandemic has resulted in this no longer being an option.

A Hypothetical Timeline

Given the distance of the trail and the timeframe I have to complete the trail, I extrapolated an approximate timeline of when I could expect to be at each major town and landmark along the PCT. 

Major Towns/DestinationsMile MarkerApprox. ETA
Southern Terminus (Campo, CA)0.005/13/22
Mount Laguna, CA41.505/16/22
Warner Springs, CA109.505/19/22
Idyllwild, CA179.405/23/22
Big Bear Lake, CA266.105/28/22
Cajon Junction (Interstate-15)342.005/31/22
Wrightwood, CA369.406/02/22
Agua Dulce, CA454.406/06/22
Tehachapi, CA566.406/12/22
Kennedy Meadows, CA702.206/19/22
Bishop, CA789.106/24/22
Mammoth Lakes, CA906.606/30/22
Tuolumne Meadows (Yosemite NP)942.507/02/22
Sonora Pass, CA1016.907/06/22
South Lake Tahoe, CA1090.807/10/22
Donner Pass, CA1153.407/13/22
Sierra City, CA1195.407/15/22
Belden, CA1286.807/20/22
Old Station, CA (Lassen NP)1373.507/25/22
Burney, CA1411.307/27/22
Mt. Shasta, CA1501.108/01/22
Etna, CA1599.708/06/22
Seiad Valley, CA1655.908/09/22
CA-OR Border1693.008/11/22
Ashland, OR1718.708/12/22
Crater Lake NP1821.708/17/22
Bend, OR1983.808/26/22
Timberline Lodge (Mt. Hood, OR)2097.009/01/22
Cascade Locks, OR2146.709/03/22
Trout Lake, WA2228.909/08/22
White Pass, WA2294.909/11/22
Snoqualmie Pass, WA2393.109/16/22
Stevens Pass/Skykomish, WA2464.109/20/22
Stehekin, WA2572.909/26/22
Northern Terminus (Canada Border)2650.009/30/22

Note that this timeline does not take into account changes in pace in different sections, zero days (days where I stay in town and do not hike any miles), or unforeseen incidents such as forest fires or injuries that may delay or change my plans.  My plans are more fluid than this timeline suggests, so it should only be used as a general reference of where I may be months ahead of time.

Hopefully breaking down the information about the different sections of the Pacific Crest Trail will give some context on where I am on the trail in the coming months.  At the very least, it will serve as an appetizer for the type of landscape and scenery that I will be taking pictures of along the way!